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Ama Dablam Expedition

Posted by: Admin | Date: April 22, 2010

Ama Dablam is a mountain in the Himalaya range of eastern Nepal. The main peak is 6,812 metres (22,349 ft), the lower western peak is 5,563 metres (18,251 ft). Ama Dablam means "Mother's necklace"; the long ridges on each side like the arms of a mother (ama) protecting her child, and the hanging glacier thought of as the dablam, the traditional double-pendant containing pictures of the gods, worn by Sherpa women. For several days, Ama Dablam dominates the eastern sky for anyone trekking to Mount Everest base camp.

Ama Dablam was first climbed on March 13, 1961 by Mike Gill (NZ), Barry Bishop (USA), Mike Ward (UK) and Wally Romanes (NZ) via the Southwest Ridge. They were well-acclimated to altitude, having wintered over at 5800 meters near the base of the peak as part of the Silver Hut Scientific Expedition of 1960-61, led by Sir Edmund Hillary.

Ama Dablam is the third most popular Himalayan peak for permitted expeditions. The most popular route by far is the Southwest Ridge. Climbers typically set up three camps along the ridge with camp 3 just below and to the right of the hanging glacier, the Dablam. Any ice that calves off the glacier typically goes left, away from the camp. A climbing permit and a liaison officer are required when attempting Ama Dablam. As with Mt. Everest, the best climbing months are April-May (before the monsoon) and September-October.

Fact Sheet

Elevation:     6,812 metres (22,349 ft)
Location:     Khumbu, Nepal
Range:        Khumbu Himal
Prominence:     1,041 m (3,415 ft)
Coordinates:     27°51′40″N 86°51′40″E.
First ascent:     1961
Easiest route:     rock/snow/ice climb
The route:     Kathamndu-Lukla-Ama Dablam BC
Best season:     Late Sept. to Oct. & April to May.
Duration:    30 days
Entry:        Lukla
Exit:        Lukla

Mount Ama Dablam Expedition Itinerary:

Day 01: Arrival at Tribhuwan International Airport (TIA) in Kathmandu and transfer to hotel

Day 02: Full day sightseeing in Kathmandu, overnight in the hotel

Day 03: Preparation day for the expedition

Day 04: We take early flight to Lukla and trek to Phakding, overnight in a lodge

Day 05: From Phakding, we trek to Namche Bazaar, overnight in a local lodge

Day 06: Rest at Namche Bazar for acclimatization, overnight in the lodge

Day 07: Today, we trek to Tengboche from Namche bazaar and overnight in a lodge

Day 08: It is our turn to trek to Ama Dablam Base Camp, overnight in the camp

Day 09: Base Camp preparation

Day 10-24: Climbing period

Day 25: Trek back to Tengboche from Ama Dablam BC, overnight in a tea house

Day 26: After having lunch, we trek to Namche Bazaar from Tengboche, overnight in a lodge

Day 27: Having food at Namche Bazaar, we trek down to Lukla, overnight in a lodge

Day 28: Fly back to Kathmandu and transfer to hotel

Day 29: It is our rest day and if wish, we would go for shopping in Kathmandu, in the evening, farewell dinner will be served, overnight in the hotel

Day 30: Back home destination